Pin Set and Snare Set Traps
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Pin Set and Snare Set Traps
How to Make a Triggered Trap
For these, you need a spring to provide the energy, such as a sapling. You also need two lengths of cord. Tie one cord to both the sapling and the trigger (we’ll get to that in a moment). The other length of cord should be looped into a snare, as above. The sapling should be able bend over all the way but have the energy to quickly and forcefully stand back up straight. You typically want to tie the cord near the top of the sapling, but not all the way up lest you chance breaking the end of the tree.
Snare Trap
For a snare trap, the trigger should be a small stick very much like a pencil, have seen them made of steel (hand forged).
1. Find three sticks. One should be pencil sized or made of steel (hand forged). The other two should be a bit thicker and tall enough for your prey to walk/hop/slither under. Keep in mind that these last two sticks will be stuck in the ground when you do your
2. “measurements”.
3. Shove the two thicker sticks in the ground spaced about as wide as the trigger is long
4. Now on each bracing stick, either trim away a branch to leave an inch or so of protrusion or cut a notch into the wood with the flat end parallel to the ground. Think of it as a shelf to keep your trigger stick from falling upward.
5. Create a snare.
6. Tie your second length of cord to the sapling and your trigger stick (steel pin).
7. Pull the sapling down so the cord is taught and place the trigger under the notches/branch stubs of your bracing sticks.
8. Attach snare to your sapling so the loop hangs under the trigger stick.
9. Optional: Add bait inside your snare.
The trigger is put under the notch or branch stub, with the sapling trying to pull everything up. The loop hangs below. The trap gets triggered when the pencil-like stick gets rolled out from under the other sticks.
For these, you need a spring to provide the energy, such as a sapling. You also need two lengths of cord. Tie one cord to both the sapling and the trigger (we’ll get to that in a moment). The other length of cord should be looped into a snare, as above. The sapling should be able bend over all the way but have the energy to quickly and forcefully stand back up straight. You typically want to tie the cord near the top of the sapling, but not all the way up lest you chance breaking the end of the tree.
Snare Trap
For a snare trap, the trigger should be a small stick very much like a pencil, have seen them made of steel (hand forged).
1. Find three sticks. One should be pencil sized or made of steel (hand forged). The other two should be a bit thicker and tall enough for your prey to walk/hop/slither under. Keep in mind that these last two sticks will be stuck in the ground when you do your
2. “measurements”.
3. Shove the two thicker sticks in the ground spaced about as wide as the trigger is long
4. Now on each bracing stick, either trim away a branch to leave an inch or so of protrusion or cut a notch into the wood with the flat end parallel to the ground. Think of it as a shelf to keep your trigger stick from falling upward.
5. Create a snare.
6. Tie your second length of cord to the sapling and your trigger stick (steel pin).
7. Pull the sapling down so the cord is taught and place the trigger under the notches/branch stubs of your bracing sticks.
8. Attach snare to your sapling so the loop hangs under the trigger stick.
9. Optional: Add bait inside your snare.
The trigger is put under the notch or branch stub, with the sapling trying to pull everything up. The loop hangs below. The trap gets triggered when the pencil-like stick gets rolled out from under the other sticks.
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